All in City Centre

Opus

The pan roasted quail arrives, looking like a muddy winter walk. It’s crispy skinned, but the meat is on the dry side; any intended caramelisation of the blackened sprouts has turned to bitterness and it’s all heavily salted, magnifying the intensity of its dominant Bovril-like flavour… READ MORE

Rudy's Neapolitan Pizza

I have to admit to a wave of food envy. The Calabrese with its spots of soft and spicy n’duja looks like God’s gift to hangovers, but it’s the Ancozzese (chilli flakes, smoked mozzarella, Tuscan sausage, friarielli and extra virgin olive oil) that taunts me the loudest about my poor decision-making... READ MORE

Legna

When the starters arrive, I see the others have mostly gone for antipasti and it only takes one mouthful to realise what a tragic mistake they’ve made. The ragù has cucina povera in abundance; it’s intensely meaty, beautifully flavoursome and succulent in a sauce richer than the deepest baritone… READ MORE

Opheem

The Halim Hyderabad looks and functions like a bowl of porridge and its mutton boldness runs so deep, you’d think it’d been mined; with sweetness provided by caramelised onions it’s wonderfully gentle and indulgent. Sitting on top is a meatball that provides a crack hit of shish kebab... READ MORE

Franco Manca

The baby kale leaves are straight from kindergarten and salad fresh, combining beautifully with the thinly sliced, rasher style pancetta, the salty blue kick from the stilton and the scattering of crispy onions providing a crunch too... READ MORE

San Carlo

San Carlo’s most famous pasta dish came beautifully presented – the thin ribboned pasta shaped like the tail of a lobster and bejeweled with peas. As for the flavour… I’m struggling to remember when I was so underwhelmed by a dish… READ MORE