Poli
OOOO, SIR
Rewind two years and Poli was one of the first reviews what I wrote. And, as it was on that visit, we have a ‘Brum-escapee’ up from London for the night. But how times have changed; there’s no longer any fear over a lack of decent neighbourhood dining options. And it’s also no longer an unlikely buzz at 7.30 just off Kings Heath High Street.
Whilst a Low Traffic Neighbourhood scheme (LTN) has polarised locals—as precisely as Brexit did the UK—you can’t argue with the advantages it brings to diners and drinkers in now pedestrianised York Road. It’s brimming with an energy that wouldn’t be out of place in any up and coming London neighbourhood.
Poli street dining on pedestrianise York Road
With Poli takeaways having been a mainstay of lockdowns, the menu looks like a track list of their greatest hits… n’duja & honey; pepperoni & jalepeno; ox cheek; bianca… but I also love that they keep freshening it up and weaving in new twists on old classics.
Today, there’s ham & pineapple… ordinarily I wouldn’t even consider that but the Poli way uses speck— smoked Italian cured ham—strianese tomatoes, fior di latte mozzarella, spring onion and pickled green chilli. But a frankly orgasmic recommendation about the lasagne calzone from a friend on another table means it will have to wait another day.
With Aperol Spritz and Negroni sharpeners, we’re up and running with blackened, collapsed Turkish peppers with full on spiky heat, cooling yoghurt and the gorgeous sleaze of brown butter.
Turkish peppers, yoghurt, brown butter
The woodfired courgette holds a great bite whilst its ‘carte blanche’ flavour is used to maximum effect by its charred caramelisation with house ricotta as a perfect foil, and pickled chilli, mint and pine nuts adding bite, crunch and zest for a sensual massage of the taste buds.
Woodfired courgette, house ricotta, chilli, mint, pine nuts
The house sourdough is just a gorgeous pillowy pizza crust that’s perfect for mopping, leaving the cultured butter largely ignored.
House sourdough, cultured butter
With the last of the late evening sun, we’re heady with chat of the potential for Mediterranean holidays before the end of summer that results in us ordering a bottle of rosé. And with that, the pizzas arrive—all with Dalmatian spotted, swollen crusts; looking just about as sexy as food can ever be.
Katrina’s gone with the Bianca—black pepper cream, fior di latte mozzarella, scamorza and parmesan, that’s all cacio e pepe and then some.
Bianca
Denise has opted for the Puttanesca–strianese tomatoes, black olives, anchovies, capers, oregano, chilli flakes, basil, garlic—every bit as whorish as its name and every bit as pungent and feisty as it should be.
Puttanesca
My lasagne calzone, looking like a recently erupted volcano is so pornographic it should come with a XXX rating. It’s also full of red hot delight—striansese tomatoes, béchamel, ox cheek ragu, fior di latte mozzarella, basil and topped with parmesan. It does everything it says on the tin and whilst neither lasagne or pizza it’s right up there with the best of each I’ve ever had.
Lasagne calzone - arrival
Lasagne calzone - spill out
As is normal, we have dips for a crust-dunking finale, but—for once—I’ve almost nothing left to extend the joy. With two extra small glasses of rosé, the bill comes in at £108 plus tip and we’ve another London-based Brummie purring with pleasure.
Two years on, Poli have totally honed their craft; I’m pretty sure they were never short of confidence, but now they completely deliver on it.
And they’ve turned me into a pizza pervert.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
21 York Road, Kings Heath, Birmingham B14 7SA
