There are no disappointments here; they’re proper puddings with a fancy twist and in my case—Rum Baba—lit at the table, and poured over moist baba, with lemon-honey Chantilly melting into the caramelly rum flambé sauce… READ MORE
All in French
Orelle
My dressed crab is everything I want from a plate of food; there’s lightly sweet buttermilk with citrussy-anise attitude from a dill coulis swirl, freshness and crunch in abundance from rainbow radish and tart, green apple, but the sweet, delicate flavour of the crab still takes centre stage… READ MORE
Fox Hampton Lane
My envy is over within two forkfuls of a perfectly cooked slab of seared hake, sitting on a bed of sweet cauliflower puree, encircled by nutty, roasted cauliflower florets. It sits in a bath of Grenobloise; clarified butter with capers, parsley and lemon, butter soaked ‘croutons’ and flecks of seaweed… READ MORE
Le Petit Bois
My perfectly slow cooked confit duck leg is meltingly tender under paper-thin crispy skin. It sits on an indulgently creamy white bean cassoulet brought into line by a sassy herb-rich sauce verte. Confit duck must be one of the high points of French cuisine and this is heavenly high… READ MORE