Artusi
OFF TO A FLYER
I’m on a mission. I’m hoping to visit my daughter reasonably regularly whilst she’s at university, assuming she lets me. I’m hopeful the key to this is that she loves good food and it’ll be the perfect opportunity to expand our list of favourite London restaurants. Two of the current top three are The River Café and Bocca di Lupo—so it feels right to start this voyage of discovery with an ‘Italian’.
On day 2 to recce ‘our’ new neighbourhood and we’re exploring on foot… from Brixton to Camberwell and into ‘trendy Peckham’. Truth is, whilst it appears like we’re ambling, I’ve done my research and I know exactly where we’re heading—Artusi—and it’s a good five minute walk off the ‘high street’ in the area estate agents call ‘Peckham village’. Time Out reckons it “can be credited with being the place that made pasta trendy again” (back in 2014). Jay Rayner’s a local and loves it here too, so I’m expecting good things.
It’s a small place—with its minimalist elegance extending from the décor to the menu, which changes daily. For today’s lunch there are just three options for starters, three pastas and two puds. Given there are three of us I suggest we go with the ‘obvious’ option and order one of everything. And with the late blast of summer showing no sign of abating we order a bottle of rosato and a large sparkling water.
Interior / end of lunch
We’ve doubled up on the coppa, which come with crescentine—discs of fried bread, crisp on the outside and slightly doughy inside—perfect for stuffing with the meat and accompanying giardiniera—lightly pickled vegetables. It’s my new favourite ‘sandwich’.
Coppa, crescentine, giardiniera
I’m perfectly happy until I get to taste the beautifully caramelised, roasted artichokes with an accompanying almond sauce that brings to mind ajo blanco and toasted breadcrumbs for crunch. It’s not often I’m jealous of vegetarians, but if I could go back to pick one dish to double up on, it would definitely be this.
Artichokes, almond sauce, parsley
We’ve all got an equal share in the salad of Cornish leaves with the earthiness of roasted beetroot, contrasting with the sweetness of orange and saltiness of the ricotta salata. It’s been a great first round of food.
Beetroot, orange, Cornish leaves, ricotta salata
For the pastas—all freshly made in house—we’ve opted for the smaller plates but they’re more than adequate for lunch. I start with the pappardelle, anchovy and chicken stock that’s massively bigger in flavour than the sum of its parts. It has me trying to work out the mystery, secret ingredient but it can only be the stock providing layers of flavour in abundance. I can’t wait to make this dish at home.
Pappardelle, anchovy, chicken stock
The spaghetti, tomato, onion, capers is a puttanesca with its whorishness stripped back (no anchovies, chilli, black olives, garlic). I’m a big fan of a full on tarty puttanesca but love the freshness of this, giving all the limelight to the sweetness of high season tomatoes contrasting against the perfumed tang of capers. It’s another I can’t wait to make at home.
Spaghetti, tomato, onion, capers
The final dish of fusili with the sweetness of pumpkin puree with sage and the crunch of hazelnut manages to steal the ‘pasta of the day’ crown. Six plates of food in, I’d not normally be too bothered that I’ve been left with little more than a few forkfuls but it’s pure autumn comfort on a plate. So that’s three new pastas I’ll be trying at home.
Fusili, pumpkin, hazelnut, sage
Despite our run of six sublime dishes out of six, we’re passing on dessert. The dark chocolate crémeux with Muscat grapes requires the strongest resistance, although truth is I don’t think I could even summon room for the strawberry sorbet.
I arrived with high hopes for the food, but the bill is a very pleasant surprise at £80 plus tip. Whilst it’s an uncomplicated menu the kitchen works its magic with best quality, seasonal ingredients to deliver perfectly cooked plates of food with flavour in abundance. It’s definitely made our list and whilst it’s not forced its way into the current top three, I wouldn’t bet against it with the full dinner experience.
I suspect I won’t have to wait too long to find out.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
161 Bellenden Road, Peckham SE15 4D
