My favourite of the lot—an almost impossible decision… so, let’s go joint first—was the smoked and pickled Cornish mussels, with its umami-charmed sour in harmony with the sweet, warming heat of fatty Iberico ‘nduja… READ MORE
All in Fine Dining
Albatross Death Cult
The biggest surprise is whilst the Kagoshima wagyu A5 is indeed the fat-primed meat bomb that’s expected and further boosted by an umami-loaded 4-year-old soy sauce, it’s matched stride by stride by a buttery, crusted pommes Anna-style hash brown… READ MORE
Six by Nico Birmingham
There’s more crunch fail from the deep fried Mars Bar that should be the eponymous hero of the dish, but the under cooked batter is an unpleasant texture. Whilst that’s a huge disappointment, the rest is a sticky, sweet, crunchy and chocolatey dream and then there’s the smile inducing Irn Bru sorbet… READ MORE
Harborne Kitchen
Next is a super-succulent fillet of cod, with celeriac two ways; salt baked and pureed, with crispy, robust cavolo nero and crunch from linseed wafers, although the subtle flavours offered by salsify are lost in a bath of rich, yeasty gravy that dominates the whole dish. It just about wins me over… READ MORE
The Wilderness
Its flavours are pushier than a time share salesman without even mentioning the venison sauce cooked with cherry beer, milk stout and finished with dark chocolate that could well bring on gout, although that wouldn’t stop me scraping up the last evidence of it on my plate… READ MORE
670 GRAMS
A potential winner for the ‘best dish of the year’ crown is next. Barbecued octopus, crisp and caramelised on the outside and wonderfully tender on the bite, a stunning langoustine tartare with a hint of Thai spices, Exmoor caviar and an aloe vera emulsion. I’d happily eat this on a loop for eternity… READ MORE
Chakana
The sea bream ceviche is cured to perfection so it melts in the mouth and again there is their signature mix of flavours and textures in abundance; from fried strips of sweet potato, tempered red onion, spicy, sourness from tiger’s milk and the taste of ‘unsugared Sugar Puffs’ and crunch from canchita (toasted corn nuts)… READ MORE
Walk On The Wild Side / The Wilderness
The Return of The Big Mac is a ‘Wilderness Classic’ a magical mix of textures, working across all taste points or more accurately, taste sensations. With my bouche having already been properly amused it is now being fully entertained… this is indeed ‘Rock n Roll fine dining’… READ MORE
Stu Deeley at Home
It’s a sublime combination of flavours intensified by the barbecued charring and the nutty, earthiness of the potatoes; perfect on the bite asparagus dressed in chive oil; and then that gorgeous Cheddar custard… like an intense hit of liquified extra vintage Dairylea… READ MORE
Peels On Wheels
The slow roast shin of beef, luxuriating in its gravy, breaks into shreds upon the slightest pressure from the fork. On the vegetarian side of the fence, there’s a whole, melt-in-your mouth, slow roasted onion, encased in pastry with onion gravy, getting deep purrs of satisfaction… READ MORE
Carters of Moseley
The next course is easily the most photogenic plate so far; a green flecked riot of orangey-pinkness with roe, scattered like pearls off a broken necklace and a piece of trout cooked sous vide. It’s coated in a miso sauce with fresh dill and chervil providing a taste spotlight for the trout’s starring role… READ MORE
Opus
The pan roasted quail arrives, looking like a muddy winter walk. It’s crispy skinned, but the meat is on the dry side; any intended caramelisation of the blackened sprouts has turned to bitterness and it’s all heavily salted, magnifying the intensity of its dominant Bovril-like flavour… READ MORE
Opheem
The Halim Hyderabad looks and functions like a bowl of porridge and its mutton boldness runs so deep, you’d think it’d been mined; with sweetness provided by caramelised onions it’s wonderfully gentle and indulgent. Sitting on top is a meatball that provides a crack hit of shish kebab... READ MORE
The Wilderness
The Iberico presa being a beautifully cooked, succulent slab from the shoulder and the pork cheek is slow cooked, shredded gorgeousness in a crispy croquette style, joyously vibrating with char siu flavours… READ MORE
