All in Kings Heath

Poli

It’s the holy trinity of perfectly cooked, pink meat, a huge, billowing Yorkshire pudding and a glossy gravy that’s way, way more than just a pretty face. As gravies go this is like a grand cru; with a fine bouquet, then releasing its complexity in the mouth with a finish to savour… READ MORE

Upstairs at Grace + James

A supermodel-gorgeous, rotund slab of porchetta with golden crunchy crackling around fatty, succulent belly and lean loin in equal measure, stuffed, rolled and slow roasted. It’s sweet and savoury flavours amplified by the fresh zing of gremolata loaded with peppery parsley, garlic, lemon and grassy olive oil… READ MORE

Upstairs

On the rarebit topping there’s plenty of savoury sharpness from Lincolnshire Poacher, perfect for the soft malty sweetness and bitter bite of Guinness. They combine to deliver fully unrestrained umami offset by the sweet, lightly spiced fruitiness of the house brown sauce… READ MORE

Poli

My lasagne calzone, looking like a recently erupted volcano is so pornographic it should come with a XXX rating. It’s also full of red hot delight—striansese tomatoes, béchamel, ox cheek ragu, fior di latte mozzarella, basil and topped with parmesan… READ MORE

Byzantium

The three large croquetas have a lovely, creamy melt-in-the-mouth middle as you bite through their perfectly crunchy casing. But I’m not getting much sense of the cheese, onion and spinach with flavour being left to the not especially garlicky alioli and onion jam… READ MORE

Bloom

It’s a menu that changes according to seasonality and today, there’s a nod to the festive season with egg nog porridge, mulled figs, chestnut purée, Christmas cake crumbs and gingerbread; and panettone butter pudding, cranberry and clementine compote, mascarpone and candied kumquats… READ MORE

Poli

The ‘meat’ on the table is provided by the bone marrow, sat in a pool of oil that oozes flavour even deeper than my love for it. It’s accompanied by some warm sourdough that’s like the precocious offspring of a ciabatta loaf and pizza crust… READ MORE

Poli

Toppings are very much in the centre, leaving swathes of naked crusts, ideal for the crust dips we’ve also ordered—two squid ink aiolis and a fermented hot sauce—for a delicious dunking finale. I finish first, hovering to see if there are any crusts left by the others but, rather disappointingly, everyone has the same goal… READ MORE