Chakana

JUST THE TWO OF US

I’ve booked a table for 5.45, not only to take advantage of the ‘Early Bird Set Menu’ but also because we’re convinced we’ll be fast asleep by 9. It’s been a tired and emotional week; starting with celebrations for our daughter’s 18th, followed by successful A-Level results, confirming she’s off to university in just a few weeks. And with her now away for a few days, it’s an opportunity to start practising the long lost art of being ‘child-free’ again.

As one of my restaurant highlights of 2019, it’s actually preposterous we’ve not been back since their opening weekend, over 10 months ago. I loved everything about it; the ambition of the Peruvian fine dining experience in Moseley; the artistry and flavours on the plate; the elegant décor and the buzz from appreciative diners. So walking into a quiet dining room is a bit surreal, but soon forgotten with the first sip of our Chakana pisco sours that scream ‘hello weekend!’ They’re a sweet and sour delight with a wonderful texture from fresh whipped egg whites.  

Chakana Pisco Sour

We order a large sparkling water and bottle of Casa Solera Bonarda Malbec, that’s too much on the light side for me, but at 12.5% it’s a pure act of chivalry on my part. We’re brought corn bread and yoghurt soured with tiger’s milk and my chivalry doesn’t last long, immediately scoffing down my piece with all the yoghurt. Fortunately the waitress spots this, bringing another bowl to bail me out, before Katrina has even noticed.

Corn Bread & Tiger’s Milk Yoghurt

Shortly after, a chef’s welcome plate arrives; a tuna tartare with ceviche-cured nuggets mixed with a light guacamole on a fragile cracker, leaving me with a fully wakened palate and excited for what’s to come.

Chef’s welcome plate - Tuna Tartare

For the starters and mains there are three options—vegetarian, meat or fish—and we’ve decided on opting for different starters with the plan to share. I start with the artichoke causa—looking like an Andean mountain range and with more colour than a Peruvian poncho. It’s a mix of contrasting textures and flavours with crunch from crisp-fried vegetables, the herby zestiness of chimmichurri, comfort from purple potato mash, a surprising mature bite from the ricotta and a sour kick too. I’m not overly sure where the artichoke sits in this, but to be honest I don’t really care.

Artichoke Causa

It’s a solid start, but the sea bream ceviche takes the starters’ crown. The fish is cured to perfection so it melts in the mouth and again there is their signature mix of flavours and textures in abundance; from fried strips of sweet potato, tempered red onion, spicy, sourness from tiger’s milk and the taste of ‘unsugared sugar puffs’ and crunch from canchita (toasted corn nuts).

Sea Bream Ceviche

We’ve both gone for the free range roast chicken for our mains—another striking looking plate of food. It’s like a Sunday roast with a South American twist; pieces of succulent chicken on the bone, sitting on a hillock of sweet potato mash with just a hint of chilli and the fresh crunch of pak choi. It’s a decent plate of comfort food but lacks wow factor.

Roast Chicken

Service has been fabulous—friendly and professional—throughout and when stuck on which dessert wine to pick, we are offered sample glasses of the two options. We can’t see past the Uruguayan tannat with layers of mocha, vanilla, honey, spice and dark berry fruit, which fits in perfectly with the overall Chakana ethos of wonderfully schizophrenic, yet complementary flavours.

We’ve decided to split our desserts and can’t see past the two we’ve had before. First up is the suspiro a la Limena, which translates to “Sigh of the lady from Lima”. It’s a caramelised, condensed milk delight with lucama fruit bringing a subtle butterscotch flavour—topped with a softly whipped meringue. It’s excellent and prompts a sigh when I reach the halfway point. 

Suspiro a la Limena

But dessert number two— alfajores dulce de leche—brings a gasp of delight with its stack of gorgeously light shortbread biscuits, fresh berries and a generous scoop of dulce de leche ice cream. I love sweet desserts; the sicklier the better—otherwise what’s the point?

Alfajores Dulce de Leche

We’ve decided to stay out for more drinks, so with it transitioning into ‘date night’ I fight the urge to lick clean the mini puddles of joy gathered in the dimples of the bowl. This is despite the ‘encouragement’ of our waitress, responding to my ‘complaint’. I resist and order an espresso with the bill, which comes in just under £100—which is seriously good value.

I was a bit apprehensive that the ‘early bird experience’ may mean we’d be ushered out as quickly as possible, but it’s proved to be totally unfounded. We’ve been here a good couple of hours and there’s a good atmosphere building. 

Without question, it’s been the full Chakana experience and we head off into the night, feeling enthused about our ‘child free’ future.

RECOMMENDED

Early Bird Set Menu is £25/head for 3 courses (Thurs-Sat)

140 Alcester Road, Moseley, Birmingham B13 8HS

www.chakana-restaurant.co.uk