The Old Crown
BOSTIN’ BAB
APRIL 2022 UPDATE Bop Kebabs have now finished their residency at The Old Crown
Unless you’re a pub historian, The Old Crown—built in 1368—has never been much to get excited about. Poor natural lighting kept its charm too well hidden and a tired interior lent it the claustrophobic feel of a rabbit warren. For a long time, it’s just been an odd apparition in Digbeth’s post-industrial landscape and a quirky landmark for the area’s growing emergence as the city’s primary indie-driven night-time destination.
Then, last year a major refurb and interior makeover created an open plan bar, allowing in more light to lift the gloom and make the most of exposed wooden beams and restored timber and quarry tiled floors. But re-launching with a food menu of pub classics was only ever going to keep them anchored in the past.
The Old Crown - entrance
Then came lockdown… and in came Bop Kebabs.
Following a run of successful pop ups, they’ve recently begun a permanent residency here, featuring their signature 'babs, bowls and mezze dishes. It’s food that draws on the full magic of Middle Eastern flavours with meats brined, dry rubbed, marinated, smoked, slow cooked and/or chargrilled for shish and shawarmas, served on homemade sourdough flatbreads. Amongst all that meat magic, they also manage to satisfy the peculiar needs of vegans.
But hang on a second… we’re here for Sunday lunch—wisely booked as I’d correctly forecast my hangover. I’m running with the idea that people who put that much effort into kebabs will hopefully do the same with a roast. We settle in with a large glass of wine each, plus a pint of bitter shandy—my go to hangover cure.
Starters are along the lines of their usual mezze fare, so I’m completely split down the middle between the lamb kofta, peanuts, green tahini sauce and pickled cucumber or chicken wings, green harissa, lemon and honey. I eventually pick the latter having had my long, embarrassing beg—and subsequent appeal—rejected by my dining companion. She will not get one wing!
As for the roasts, there are four mains including Aubrey Allen sirloin, chicken supreme, pork belly and a vegan wellington; all with roast potatoes, glazed carrots, greens and a Yorkshire. Neither of us can see past the beef nor the optional—surely obligatory—side of cauliflower cheese.
The Old Crown - dining area
And then, twenty minutes later, the roasts arrive, triggering a panicked response from me “but I haven’t had my starter yet?” This prompts a convoluted and confused explanation, which rather bizarrely amounts to it being not their fault. But, our original waitress is over almost immediately, apologising for the mistake and it’s absolutely fine because the plates in front of us look far too appetising to send back. I am just miffed I won’t be able to indignantly refuse to share my wings.
Aubrey Allen roast sirloin
The plate glows with a deliciously pink, thick slab of sirloin; a perfectly crisp and gnarly Yorkshire; glazed, caramelised and roasted carrots; crunchy roast potatoes; and buttered greens with leeks.
Cauliflower cheese
The cauliflower retains bite, in a sparse but cheesy sauce with a crust that cranks up the cheesiness to the required level with the exact amount of necessary slightly ‘burnt bits’.
We’re brought a big jug of gravy on the runny side, but more importantly there’s enough of it to not worry about running out and there’s horseradish sauce too. This is a mighty fine Sunday roast and just the right quantity to keep my hangover in check, without inducing a malfunction of my internal central heating.
I’ve actually got room for more and there’s no better pudding in the world than the one that follows a roast. And let’s be clear here, I’m talking pudding and not dessert; puddings that should be as predictable as the key elements of any roast.
On enquiring on the options, it’s disappointingly just brownie with ice cream or ice cream without the brownie… no tart, nothing sticky, no crumble, nothing creamy and not even any custard. Right now, I’d even take something—anything—with a crème Anglaise.
The total bill is £51.10 plus tip and whilst it’s threatened to be defined by the courses we didn’t have, it’s delivered one of the best Sunday roasts in the city. And I’ll definitely be back soon to try the full Bop ‘bab experience too.
RECOMMENDED
Bop Kebabs / The Old Crown, 188 High St, Digbeth B12 0LD
