Orelle
PAID FOR / I was invited to sample the £29 Sunday roasts at @orellerestaurant
Let’s get straight into it… we’ve both gone for the 35-day aged Cumbrian sirloin (served pink or well done); with our three slices at the redder end of medium rare and very easy on the bite. It arrives with a slightly dry, but otherwise satisfactory Yorkshire pudding and four straight-roasted waxy potatoes, rather than the more common floury, pre-boiled version that have soaked in some fat. No matter, they’re good; crisp edges and good texture.
35 day aged roast sirloin (pink)
The supporting cast includes confit carrot and a medley of greens with peas, tenderstem, spring greens, mange tout and French beans in the mix. There’s also a pot of lightly sweet-and-sour red cabbage, plus gravy on demand.
Confit carrot & greens
Optional sides (all £5.50), include cauliflower cheese, that I’m astounded I completely failed to spot. More’s the pity, given I reckon it would’ve been decent, eyeing one being delivered to an adjacent table.
Fully primed
Wines by the glass are a bit limited, unless you’re choosing from the pricier ‘by coravin’ options, although it’s a decent list by bottle. As it happens, I got through a couple of glasses of Côtes du Rhône Villages (£13 175ml) that’s got the sweet-spiced bramble fruit that’s expected of a Grenache and Syrah blend.
We’d passed on an impressive line-up of starters, but c’mon, Sunday lunch is best when it’s a roast and a dessert. That said, it’s a risk when you’ve no prior sight of the desserts’ menu, that often leaves me worried, that instead of the sweet and stodge crowd pleasers, they’ll be in the ‘too sophisticated’ or ‘over fussy’ desserts camp… usually with just three options too.
Rum Baba
There are no disappointments here; they’ve crucially got a firm foot in the sweet and stodgy, with five to choose from (£11-16). Proper puddings with a fancy twist and in my case—Rum Baba—ceremoniously lit at the table, and poured over moist, sweet yeast cake (baba), held in check by lemon-honey Chantilly melting into the caramelly rum flambé sauce.
Crème brûlée
By the time we’d normally be doing a spoon exchange, I’ve already smashed mine. Happily, I was still graciously offered some impeccable crème brûlée accompanied by macerated berries and vanilla sables… like impossibly light shortbread.
It's been my third visit and it’s by far the best version of Orelle I’ve experienced; the food has been very good and easy on the eye too. Also, service, whilst still professional, is definitely a more relaxed and comfortable experience.
Orelle dining room
My only real quibble is, rather than our view over the building projects in the north west of the city which lost its appeal relatively quickly, it would’ve been better had the table been set up looking in toward the room. Not only is it one of Birmingham’s best dining rooms (without even mentioning the views), but it’s also great for people watching. Today, it’s a good three quarters full with quiet birthday celebrations, friends and families catch ups and a smattering of romantic liaisons, all combining to give it a collectively satisfied atmosphere.
Next time I’ll definitely ask them to switch us round… But that doesn’t detract from what’s been a very good Sunday roast.
RECOMMENDED
103 Colmore Row, Birmingham B3 3AG
16/03/2025
Sunday roast £29 – 4 options sirloin; roast chicken breast; shallot tarte tatin; and roast saddleback pork cutlet, all served with unlimited ‘family style’ roast potato, confit carrot, broccoli, red cabbage, Yorkshire pudding and gravy.
