Orelle
ROOM WITH A VIEW
A rooftop restaurant, boasting 360-degree panoramic views is hardly new to Birmingham, given we’ve had the ‘Beefeater in the sky’ AKA the Marco Pierre White Steakhouse at The Cube since 2011. And that just proves it takes more than a view of the vast spread of a post-industrial city to be a good restaurant.
Upstairs bar
We’re led through the ground floor cocktail bar by our greeter, to a lift that shoots us up 24 floors, faster than the pop of a champagne cork. We’re met by another greeter, then handed over to the waiting staff and escorted into the main restaurant and it’s a genuine ‘wow’ moment.
Main dining room
My eyes are immediately drawn to the cascade of tubular lighting that extends for metres into the double—seemingly triple—storey ceiling, that together with the wall to ceiling windows almost gives an impression of us hanging in space. The interior design is easy on the eye, sitting somewhere between classy and understated bling, including a central island of coral, scallop banquettes, adorned with flamboyant flower displays.
We’re eventually given a choice of a handful of crisp, white linened tables and choose one in a corner, although it takes us five minutes to sit, getting our bearings and pointing out different landmarks, near and afar. I’m pretty sure the staff are going to have to get used to this.
Il Seggio, Bolgheri Rosso
The menu ‘showcases the best of British produce’ featuring some French classics or at the very least dishes with a French twist and there’s an extensive wine list, including a 1985 Château Margaux at £950. But I’m happy enough spotting a Super Tuscan in the shape of a Bolgheri Rosso and whilst it’s no vintage Margaux, it’s excellent value at £62 a bottle; dark fruit dominant, medium bodied in the Bordeaux-style with silky tannins and a clean finish that would normally demand a second bottle. So, damn you work and having a busy-ish afternoon.
Amuse bouche / Chick pea & taramasalata
We’re up and running with an amuse bouche; two bites of chick pea batter with taramasalata providing a hit of the sea. It’s a pleasant treat, but as noticeable by it being immediately followed by our starters.
Foie – duck liver ‘en torchon’, fig, brioche toast
Across the table is duck liver pâté with brioche toast and I‘m very grateful for my tasting forkful given it’s doing a decent impression of foie gras with smooth texture, meaty-buttery flavour, paired perfectly with the delicate honey sweetness of fig.
Crabe – dressed crab, rainbow radish, green apple, buttermilk and dill
But there’s no plate envy with my dressed crab. It’s everything I want from a plate of food; there’s lightly sweet buttermilk with citrussy-anise attitude from a dill coulis swirl, freshness and crunch in abundance from rainbow radish and tart, green apple, but the sweet, delicate flavour of the crab still takes centre stage.
Côte de boeuf - 50 day aged 800g bone in ribeye, beef fat carrots, oxtail mac and cheese, bone marrow crumb
Now, at this point it’s only fair to point out we’re dining in the soft launch week, so the food bill is 50% off, which probably influences our decision to share a côte de boeuf that boasts 50-day ageing of its 800g bone in ribeye. If that’s not persuasive enough, it also promises beef fat carrots, oxtail mac and cheese and bone marrow crumb.
Oxtail mac & cheese, bone marrow crumb
My dining partner is cheese averse, so they offer to bring some fries to compensate his misfortune; it’s a token gesture given the oxtail mac and cheese is so devilishly good. The macaroni cheese is so filthy it brings to mind intensified processed cheese and that is truly a compliment. Yet it’s underneath where the magic truly lies with a rich, deep reserve of succulent shreds of pulled oxtail, coated in a thick gravy that delivers such an intense hit of beef it floods my brain with serotonin.
Côte de boeuf, beef fat carrots, oxtail mac and cheese, bone marrow crumb, gravy
Unfortunately, having ordered the rib eye medium rare, it’s underdone and whilst better to be rare than medium it’s still a disappointment. The mac and cheese really shouldn’t be the best thing on the table, although it needs stating the beef fat carrots and gravy are very good too.
I want the meal to end on a high and despite not being bowled over by the two sweet options—there’s also a cheese board—I know there’ll be dessert wines, even if that makes this afternoon’s work even more of an uphill task.
Chocolat – mousse au chocolat, framboise coulis, vanilla ice cream
And so it is, that I decide on the chocolat; a mirror-glazed dome of velvety mousse sitting on a biscuit with a hidden, fresh hit of strawberry coulis, topped with a Mohican-style crisp wafer and a generous sprinkle of crunch. Even the accompanying scoop of vanilla ice cream is topped with a heavy dusting of biscuit crumb.
I’d happily have eaten this without dessert wine, although a Maury Grenat is an excellent recommendation from the sommelier; a vin doux naturel, that offers both prune and caramel, works effortlessly with the chocolate, although I’d happily have this without a dessert too, to be fair.
With two large sparkling waters, a single and double espresso and the food reduced by 50% our bill is £172.69 inc. service charge— it would’ve been £223.00 outside the soft launch.
Ordinarily I’d have a few quibbles, such as timings between the amuse bouche and the starter and too many staff too keen to impress too often, but the soft launch will enable them to iron out those sorts of creases. However, with a price tag of £85 (for 2) it’s absolutely essential they cook the côte de boeuf as requested; it’s such a kitchen basic, it’s difficult to excuse, even at a soft launch.
But, wow, what a restaurant, and steak apart, the food is well worthy of its surroundings. I’m looking forward to returning; this is a great restaurant with or without the view.
RECOMMENDED 7/10
103 Colmore Row, Birmingham B3 3AG
