All in Seasonal

CUUBO

The other is at least its equal, featuring a lightly tart, chilled and loose lemon custard with a salted ricotta ice cream float and pistachio and biscuit crumbs for sweetness and crunch. These are both contenders to be my favourite dessert of the year… READ MORE

Brawn

The BBQ’d squid could only be better if I could hear waves breaking on a beach; it’s easy on the bite, with delicate slices of full flavoured tomatoes, but it’s fruity Taggiasche olives and a citrussy salsa verde that take full charge of the palate… READ MORE

Brat

John Dory cooked over fire fails to give it any kind of visual makeover, but cooked initially over hot coals before being finished over gentler heat, its pleasures are intensified across flavour and texture, especially for lovers of crunchy skin… READ MORE

St John Smithfield

Roast bone marrow is a menu mainstay since the 90s and I’m grateful for a donation of one from which I slather its rich, fatty innards onto sourdough toast before loading with a lemon dressed flat leaf parsley, caper and shallot salad and a sprinkle of salt for two mouthfuls of perfectly balanced decadence… READ MORE

Little Duck The Picklery

I’m not nearly so honourable when it comes to the next plate that offers up a fresh take on mozzarella, with stewed flat piattone beans and sweet datterini tomatoes, fresh mint and topped with the crunch of fried breadcrumbs. It’s a dish that offers a titanic blow for blow battle of textures and flavours… READ MORE

Ducksoup

The lamb neck fillet has been flash grilled, so it’s gorgeously pink and tender, with its juices running into the bed of creamy lentils with perfect bite. With delicately sweet and grassy, early season asparagus and salinity from olives pushes itself forward as dish of the day… READ MORE

Sessions Arts Club

By now, we’ve racked up £82 on ‘small plates’ and I’m pretty sure that’s amounted to six forkfuls, half a chickpea ‘churro’ and a cracker’s worth of ‘flatbread’ each. It’s mostly delivered on textures and flavour, but feels like we’ve shared a menu of tasting dishes... READ MORE

Café Cecilia

The bright pink, medium rare onglet boasting a fire-licked crust is as melt in the mouth as meat gets, with an almost spicy peppercorn sauce emboldened with cream and brandy served with chips that offer perfect crunch, despite being smashed into the gravy for dredging purposes… READ MORE

Bright

A plate of thin slices of raw grey mullet, covered in a briny seaweed laden oil, tempered by lemon zest provides a boost to the fresh delicacy of fish. It’s gone quicker than a tray of free Jägerbombs in Fresher’s week, but I refuse to entertain even a glimmer of disappointment and order another straight away.… READ MORE

Caneat

It’s a thick and rich, meat-laden stew, with different textures from the softness of pork belly, seared crusts and the sheer comfort of braised meats all making themselves known. A lightly truffled mash is an immaculate companion, with the sweetness of fried onions and peppery tingle of spring onion oil … READ MORE