Dough
PIQUANTE AND CHILLY
Trying to pin down dates for a family summer holiday with a nearly eighteen year-old daughter requires a pizza shaped appeal to her heart. It will also put Italy firmly in her mind. And so we’re here at the taproom and pizza spin off at Dig Brew Co, the Digbeth based independent brewery.
Pushing through PVC strip curtains, it feels quite sci-fi passing through huge, shiny, stainless steel fermentation tanks, before it opens up Tardis-like into a former factory. It’s the kind of space that would’ve been perfect for a warehouse party back in the day, although these days I’d be tucked up in bed long before it had even got started.
Dig Brew / Dough interior
It’s all about simplicity—whitewashed walls, long communal tables and benches, an impressively long bar, and bare light bulbs strewn over white ceiling joists. At the far end, the pre-cooked pizzas are on display—huge 20 inch discs of dough and cheese based magic requiring a blast in ovens to deliver them bubbling hot to the table. There are five variations on offer, with three being veggie (with two of those adaptable for vegans). A ‘whole pie’ is £20 but we decide two quarters are enough (£6 each), with a side of scamorza dippers getting the nod over dough balls—despite there being three dip variations on offer.
Out of the eight or so draft beers, I opt for the ‘Sports Day’, prompting a mental note to rejoin the gym. It’s as black as Guinness in the German dark lager style with a lightly malty, slightly sweet edge. It may be my favourite craft ‘ale’ ever; I definitely need more of it in my life and cancel that mental note to rejoin the gym. With a San Pellegrino fizzy orange, the total bill comes to £21.70
Looking for somewhere to sit, it’s noticeable everyone is dressed like they’re on an expedition to the North Pole. It’s as cold inside as it is outside, but we spot a radiator on the back wall which entices us over. Alas, it’s not on, but at least there’s some electro-funk on the sound system to warm our ears.
Fortunately, the food arrives before frostbite takes hold and I’m immediately warming my fingers with scamorza cheese oozing from its crunchy breadcrumb coating. The roquito and piquante jam turns out to be sweet chilli sauce with a fancy name, but it’s fine for dunking.
Scamorza dippers
The pizzas look great, with easy-on-the-eye charred puffy crusts. I’ve gone for the Lilith with a house cheese and spicy n’duja laced tomato base, topped with pepperoni. There’s also sweet heat from more of that roquito and piquante jam and some melted burrata creamy comfort. It delivers on flavour, but the pizza base is too crispy dry.
Lilith (quarter pie) with n’duja marinara, house cheese, pepperoni, burrata and basil
Georgie’s perfectly happy with her Bridgette, so it takes my two remaining scamorza dippers to negotiate a slice to taste. It’s a white pizza offering the contrasting blue cheese delights of creamy dolcelatte with the salty kick from stilton, all softened by a drizzle of honey and added crunch from toasted almonds. The base is as-you’d-expect tearable, so all in all it’s a pretty decent pizza.
Bridgette (quarter pie) white pizza with house cheese, dolcelatte, stilton, toasted almonds and honey
By now, it’s virtually empty and with no pizza left to provide warmth, we head for home. I suggest it’s more a bar that does pizza, rather than a place you’d come for pizza. Georgie responds that it’s probably not aimed at my age group and she’d definitely come here with her mates. Charming… but at least I’ve got 10 days in July agreed—in the land of pizza too.
WORTH A TRY (Recommended by Georgie)
43 River St, Digbeth, Birmingham B5 5SA
