All tagged Worth a try
The onglet with salsa verde splits the table. I’m OK with it, cooked just right and the accompanying salsa verde gets a real sweet and fatty lift from bone marrow… across the table—a cook-on-fire master—the verdict is “no seasoning; no taste; no caramelisation”… READ MORE
By now, we’ve racked up £82 on ‘small plates’ and I’m pretty sure that’s amounted to six forkfuls, half a chickpea ‘churro’ and a cracker’s worth of ‘flatbread’ each. It’s mostly delivered on textures and flavour, but feels like we’ve shared a menu of tasting dishes... READ MORE
Next is a super-succulent fillet of cod, with celeriac two ways; salt baked and pureed, with crispy, robust cavolo nero and crunch from linseed wafers, although the subtle flavours offered by salsify are lost in a bath of rich, yeasty gravy that dominates the whole dish. It just about wins me over… READ MORE
I’ve no plate envy whatsoever, with my herb flecked pappardelle, topped with a white ragú of slow braised shreds of lamb. It’s surprisingly light and fresh, allowing the sweetness of the lamb to rightly do all the hard work, although there’s a third too much pasta than the sauce requires… READ MORE
Across the table we’re split 3:3 with a large single raviolo filled with squash puree, featuring a slab of roasted squash, an appropriate puddle of butter and a decent layer of Parmesan. My three plump balls of pillowy, sweet ricotta have a heavy spike of nutmeg but not quite enough sage butter… READ MORE
Wonderfully densely meaty frankfurters with a quiet kick of chilli that builds slowly. And credit to the curry sauce that offers no more sophistication than generic curry powder. It’s perfect and exactly as I remember it in Berlin, although they’d be goose stepped out of there with a price tag of £16.50… READ MORE
Rosa’s green curry (with more dry chicken) dangling the carrot of three out of three on the chilli scale merely confirms it’s not so much a recalibration of the scoville scale in the kitchen that’s required but a reprint of the menus… READ MORE
The braised mutton chops with chilli and prunes is rich, spicy and sweet with the meat plentiful and meltingly soft, but a lot drier ‘sauce’ than I was expecting. It’s not right for my Peshawari naan I’d forgotten about when changing my order. A wet veggie side dish would have been perfect… READ MORE
My two stacked pieces of Louisana chicken are in the lightly coated, blackened spice style and just the right side of dry. Its spicy saltiness works harmoniously with the sweet and rich butter waffle, intensified by the maple syrup… READ MORE
The brisket is sat centre stage, ingot-sized, if not looking anything like so appealing. But tucking in, it breaks into beautifully moist meaty shreds in the ‘pulled style’… a Jenga-style pile of roasted parsnips and carrots, shredded collard greens… READ MORE
I’ve been eating for what seems like fifteen minutes before discovering everything on my plate. There’s mash, roast potatoes, crushed swede, carrots, peas, kale and red cabbage that has a lovely tangy crunch to it and none of the usual mulled spices that tend to overpower it… READ MORE
Before long the piles of fish pakora arrive, and it’s easy to see why they’ve achieved legendary status, being subtly spiced and beautifully succulent under the crunch of batter. The chicken wings are also a delight– plump and juicy with a hint of spicy heat… READ MORE
We choose beğendi—a mushy roasted aubergine dish very much like a baba ganoush; menemen—egg poached in a tomato sauce with peppers in the style of a baked huevos rancheros without the chilli; and kuru misket köfte—beef meatballs… READ MORE
