The Meat Shack
LUCKY PANTS
It’s said that ‘all good things come to those who wait’ and so it is, that I get myself here, somewhat glacially, on the back of multiple recommendations, with one even preceding COVID. It’s fair to say, my expectations are raised.
Being one of the early breakout stars from Digbeth Dining Club, it’s been 8 years since they opened in Thorp Street, round the corner from the Hippodrome. It’s an airy 60 seater, so larger than I’d expected, but more comfortable than its dive bar meets diner styling suggests and with table service thrown in too.
Conditions are perfect… meeting mates for the midweek Celtic Champions League game at Villa Park. The match day ritual begins in one of the city’s beer friendly eateries and a happy experience coupled with a victory can mean promotion to the pre-match roster.
It’s also a very welcome break from my healthy living start of the year, with a couple of pints of nectar AKA Staropramen, so it’s a red card and early bath for dry January.
Buffalo Blue
In an attempt to make up lost time and to experience maximum exposure, I’ve gone for a chicken and burger double header. For the latter it’s the Buffalo Blue and whilst not quite ‘dripping with filth’—I never got to lick my fingers, never mind my arms—it’s certainly a flavour bomb, spraying all the taste receptors with salty funk from blue cheese, eventually giving way to sour heat from buffalo sauce and umami loaded, salty-sweet candy bacon crumb.
The only problem is it needs an extra patty, as the beef is overshadowed in such brash company, despite the 5oz dry aged, grass-fed beef patties being hand smashed to maximise the Maillard reaction—caramelisation on steroids—doubling up on the grilled meat flavours and then some.
Salt & Pepper’ chicken bombs
My ‘side’ is Salt & Pepper buttermilk-brined and fried ‘chicken bombs’ with ‘Shack S & P seasoning’… flavour-wise it’s fine, but lacks the crunch I want from a fried chicken dish. Covered in grilled red chilli, onions and peppers it occupies a space between a hot sizzler plate and fried chicken dish… it’s almost ‘guilt free’.
My quibbles aside, it passes the vote unanimously onto the pre-match food roster and next time I’ll definitely order an extra patty and loaded fries. My share of the bill is £24 and with celebratory pints of Guinness sunk before the night is over, it also flies through the slippery challenges of the superstitions test.
RECOMMENDED 8/10
The Meat Shack, 17 Thorp Street, Birmingham B5 4AT
JANUARY 29th 2025
