Cow & Sow Birmingham

COUNTDOWN

An ‘express lunch’ is an oxymoron to me, but ahead of Cow & Sow‘s arrival in Birmingham, in exchange for signing up for ‘news’, I received a ‘meal on us’ voucher or, more accurately, a free main off their express lunch menu.

It’s throwing out promising vibes with 4 options for starters, mains and desserts with 1 course for £14, 2 for £18 and 3 for £22. It seems a proper bargain, although I’m guessing part of the deal is that we’re in and out quickly.

Express lunch Menu

As it happens, I’ve got the perfect dining partner who’s insistent we need to be done within the hour. Arriving at 1.10, all’s good as we’re shown to our table straight away and it’s not particularly busy either. At 1.13 we’re asked if we want water, which arrives promptly. By 1.30 we’re trying to get a waiter’s attention to take our order… eventually snagging the manager and at 1.32 a waiter arrives.

Dining room (bar end)

By now, we’ve taken in the surroundings and it’s so new, it’s got a box fresh smell and the décor with its muted colours, polished wood and classic styling, immediately reminds me of a pair of a sturdy, polished and leather-soled Oxford Brogues.

‘The Sow’

At 1.46 our starters arrive and we point out we’ve yet to receive our wine—a glass of Pinot Nero and a Barossa Shiraz—which duly arrive at 1.48, by which point I’m thoroughly enjoying ‘The Sow’ sticky pork belly. The soy, honey and sesame glaze is bang on point and the dish is salty, sweet, succulent and crispy.

Burnt Ends with bacon ketchup

Alas, the same can’t be said for ‘Burnt Ends’ which is as near to being true burnt ends as that often-abused label ‘triple cooked chips’ i.e. ‘fancy’ oven chips. What we’re after is a crispier, crunchier, fatty-moist beef brisket tail version of the pork belly. What we’ve got is dry-grilled, pre-cooked ‘stewing steak’ that whilst not chewy per se, it’s far more of a jaw exercise and massively less joy than its name promises. A benign bacon ketchup provides no real support other than wetness.

Flat iron steak (140g)

At 1.57 our mains arrive, both opting for the flat iron steak (140g) ‘served pink’, with green and pink peppercorn sauce and chips (other sauces are available). But, mine’s medium at best and medium well done at worst; although across the table it’s rare, so no complaints there. I’d send it back, but it’s now 2.02.

Close ups… Flat iron (140g) ‘cooked pink’

House slaw

The chips are OK, as is the house slaw (additional £4.95) and enough to share, but best of all is an excellent sauce; no shyness with the peppercorns and it’s a beef powered, creamy treat. It’s so good we ask for more and end up being charged £7.90 (for two) despite it not being flagged on the express menu, but my real issue is that they arrive at 2.08 and we’re both pretty much finished.

At 2.11 we ask for the bill and 68 minutes after we arrive, we’re done and using the Complimentary Lunch vouchers it’s £27 each on the credit cards (Food £53.85 / Booze £20.50 / Service £7.44).

It’s their first week of opening and it’s clear staff are learning on the job and just like a new pair of Brogues, they’ll soon break in. That’s easily understood so early in their tenure, but the food side of things is a concern.

That said, I suspect it’s still better than Miller & Carter.

www.thecowandsow.co.uk/birmingham

One Chamberlain Square, Paradise, Birmingham B3 3AX