Plates by Purnell's
Surely the most anticipated new opening of 2023 has already landed. The thought of what Glynn Purnell’s tapas restaurant will bring to the city has been teasing me since the news was announced last summer.
I’m sure we’re finally getting something along the lines of London’s Barrafina... the place that redefined the British take on tapas back in 2007. And now, even as a small chain of five stylish restaurants—each with their own menu—they still offer sophisticated twists on regional Spanish dishes and daily changing specials boards… as well as hefty prices too, but always worth it.
Then, BOOM! The menu landed on social media earlier in the week and it’s completely sent me in a spin. It’s a full on ‘who’s who’ of hackneyed tapas dishes and even the design and font of the menu demonstrates no attempt at sophistication whatsoever. And prices are on a par with any workaday tapas place in the suburbs!
I just don’t know what to think, although without Purnell's name attached, I may even have cancelled my booking. But as it is, we’re in at 7 o’clock on their first Saturday night.
Bar
The décor is completely impossible to pin down other than I could easily have walked in off the street in Bilbao or Barcelona. It’s a relaxed set up; effectively a large L shaped corridor, mostly set up for people dining in pairs. But front of house is where all the action happens with the open kitchen and bar sitting side by side.
Front of house
We’re handed menus, that I already know off by heart, with the advice to order two or three at a time and see how we go. We kick off with three and settle in with a bottle of Albariño.
Two of the most commonly abused tapas are ideal indicators of the quality of what’s to come; croquetas, which should be completely potato free; and patatas bravas which should offer some heat and the fiercer the better.
Patatas bravas / Spicy potatoes
As it happens the croquetas have been taken off the menu as “they’re exploding in the fryer”, so the test shifts onto the patatas bravas. They just threaten the mid-point on the fierce spectrum; the kind of heat that builds, so whilst it’s barely perceptible on the first mouthful by the end I’m happy enough. A grated cheese topping and light crunch on the potatoes—having been twice cooked and finished in the fryer—add to the pleasure.
Bacalao al pil pil / Cod
The bacalao al pil pil delivers a fat fillet of cod so succulent it beggars belief it’s been dried and salted before being reconstituted. Its fabulous meaty flesh is topped with grated cheese and sits in a creamy bath that delivers on the garlic but just lacks chilli heat for the full pil pil experience.
Anchoas en Tostada / Anchovies on Toast
Build-your-own anchovies on toast is the dish that really starts the belief that we’re looking at very well priced food. A generous pile of superior quality anchovies—meaty, firm and packing umami with the saltiness—sit on top of fresh tomato reduced almost to a sweet puree along with a zesty, tangy and fragrant salsa verde. With all that, the five slices of lightly toasted baguette are inadequate, although a request for more brings us an extra three.
Chorizo al vino tinto / Chorizo in red wine
We’re ready for another round and we’re straight into the beating heart of any tapas menu… chorizo in red wine sauce. The chorizo is the softer version and the sauce is garlicky, sweet and intense. It leaves me scraping up every last morsel with the serving spoon wishing they had a simple bowl of bread on the menu.
Grilled Ensalada Verde / Grilled Baby Gem Salad
I can barely believe the waiter convinced me to try the grilled baby gem salad but it’s a great call with caramelised, softened outer leaves whilst retaining the crisp succulence of the inner leaves. They’re topped with sweetness and texture from nuts, fried onions and breadcrumbs as well as saltiness and umami from those fabulous anchovies too.
Pulpo a la Gallega / Grilled octopus
Five great tapas in and then probably the best of the lot drops; perfect on the bite grilled octopus with cream cheese and romesco sauce throwing the taste buds one way then the other. I don’t think I’d have had any quibble about the portion for the tenner it is on the menu, but it’s announced by the waiter as “too small” and that brings us a second one as a fabulous finale.
Whilst it’s completely not what I’d been expecting, I’m really rather smitten. The tapas are simple—mostly pre-prepared and finished off in the kitchen—but the ingredients ooze quality and flavours are mostly on the bold side. And to cap it all off, the bill is a barely believable £82.50 (Food £45 / Drink £30 / Service Charge £7.50). It feels like a complete bargain.
It’s a restaurant, much like the menu, that doesn’t take itself too seriously, but then completely over delivers on everything. It’s a great addition to the city centre dining options.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 8/10 (9/10 ON PRICE)
121 Edmund Street, Birmingham B3 2HJ
