Hockley Social Club
KINGS OF THE WILD FRONTIER
I can lay no claim to being a regular at Digbeth Dining Club, having only been around 10 times over its 8 or 9 years in Lower Trinity Street. It was a place to meet before a gig or a Friday night after work, perfect with its one foot in club land feel, to help kick down the door to the weekend.
Food was always a secondary consideration and I can’t recall anything any better than ‘OK festival food’. Although, given DCC provided the foothold for the likes of Original Patty Men and Baked in Brick to move into their own premises, I’ve little doubt my experiences were down to hunger-fueled impatience encouraging me to join the smallest queue.
Now, they themselves have moved into their own premises, across the city to Hockley. One of the notable differences is that dining options are provided by three resident kitchens—all DCC favourites—so, food is very much forefront of my mind. I’m here for Low n Slow and their Texas and modern Mexican inspired BBQ, but I’m willing to get my head turned by Buddha Belly (Thai) and Kodawari (Japanese).
We’re welcomed by the city’s friendliest door staff, very much in the greeters’ rather than the bouncers’ box. We’re swiftly taken through into the ‘bar area’ and left with menus and instructions—order via QR codes for food and summon one of the many waiting staff for drinks. The list includes natural wines from Wine Freedom as well as local beers from the likes of Dig Brew, Attic and Purity. It all feels very grown up.
Hockley Social Club bar area
With seating for over 500, they’ve still managed to create a homely feel, whilst wearing its industrial chic on its sleeve. There are three distinct zones—the bar with stools and high tables, the dining area, with candle-light eventually playing its hand, and an undercover outdoor area. It’s a mixed crowd of mostly 20- and 30-somethings, so even with it just around half full there’s enough of an atmosphere buoyed by a sound system that’s impressive given the size of the room.
Hockley Social Club dining area
We’re in a group of four, with friends who’ve still made the trip up from London despite the Mostly Jazz weekend being postponed. One is vegan and it’s a surprise there’s such a limited choice, and it’s only marginally better for vegetarians. She opts for the Thai vegan curry, served with jasmine rice from Buddha Belly. It’s got crunch and it’s on the milder side of medium, but it’s mostly unremarkable.
Buddha Belly Thai vegan curry
Next lands my karaage from Kodawari; a generous pile of boneless, triple fried, buttermilk marinated chicken thighs, with a light heat and sour kick from the yuzu and chilli mayo. It’s almost completely marvelous, apart from a couple of pieces that seem to have shied away from their final fry.
Kodawari karaage
Across the table there’s teriyaki beef loaded fries, also from Kodawari, and I’m quick to negotiate two chicken thighs for three heaped forkfuls that has me almost regretting I’d arrived with my mind already made up on Low n Slow. It’s wonderfully tangy-sweet with just a hint of sour whilst still allowing the flavour of pulled beef flank to shine through. The crisp, seasoned chips are way above average for loaded fries and there’s crunch and heat from chilli, spring onion, slaw and crispy onions, topped with MSG-loaded kewpie mayo that makes it more addictive than crack.
Kodawari teriyaki beef loaded fries
I’d happily have everything from the Low n Slow menu and it’s an epic struggle deciding between the pork shoulder special, marinated in achiote or either of the smoked brisket or smoked pork belly tortas, but I eventually settle on the tacos. The barbacoa beef option eventually wins out over the pork belly. I’ve also got a 50% investment in beef fat BBQ roast potatoes with a green herb salsa so vibrant it delivers one of your five-a-day just looking at it.
Low n Slow beef fat Cornish potatoes with green herb salsa
My three corn tortilla tacos are loaded with pulled, smoked ox cheek, salsa roja, pickled red onion, pecorino cheese and coriander. It still manages to be every bit greater than the sum of its parts, providing a firework display of flavour for the palate. It’s every bit as good as the loaded fries and it’s all mine.
Low n Slow smoked ox cheek tacos
We settle in for the rest of the night and we’re pretty much the last to leave, wandering out into a now deserted Hockley night to get our cabs home.
It’s no exaggeration to say DCC was the catalyst for Digbeth to emerge as a bona fide food and drink destination. And with Hockley Social Club being the other side of the tracks from the Jewellery Quarter, only time will tell if it has the same effect here.
I’d certainly not bet against it.
RECOMMENDED
60 Hampton Street, Hockley, Birmingham B19 3LU
