Bloom
THE END OF WESTERN CIVILISATION
According to their website, Bloom is ‘a casual café … where speciality coffee meets considered food.’ Whatever that means, it’s clear they’ve hit on a winning formula. It’s very busy at weekends, although that’s hardly a surprise given the menu has a strong leaning towards brunch.
Bloom doesn’t take reservations, otherwise I’d have been here a lot more regularly than the four times I have—over the two and half years since they opened. The kitchen is open til 2.30, so we’re hoping getting there for 2 should give us the best chance of a table without too much of a wait. As we walk in, there’s one table for two available and a grin spreads across my face.
It’s a menu that changes according to seasonality and availability and there’s plenty to please a vegetarian or meat eater. Today, there’s a nod to the festive season with egg nog porridge, mulled figs, chestnut purée, Christmas cake crumbs and gingerbread; as well as panettone butter pudding, cranberry and clementine compote, mascarpone and candied kumquats. There are fancy cakes, coffee eight ways and ten different teas available too.
But I’ve no real need to look at the menu, as I already know what I’m ordering, having thoroughly enjoyed it on the last two visits. To avoid any potential disappointment whilst there I checked online before leaving and there it was - duck hash - with red cabbage, fried duck egg, crispy onions and duck stock; then I spotted—seemingly flashing with lights—Bloody Mary (weekend only) - Double Grey Goose vodka with all the trimmings. Ding dong merrily on high!
The term brunch originated in England in the late 19th century by writer, Guy Beringer. In an article titled ‘Brunch: A Plea’, he argued it “would make life brighter for Saturday-night carousers,” but it took until 1920s America for brunch to really take hold. Then, following the end of prohibition, the Bloody Mary is recorded as first being spiced up at New York's King Cole Bar in 1934. Shortly after this, the marriage of brunch and the Bloody Mary is arguably when we hit the highpoint of western civilisation.
Georgie opts for the vegetarian breakfast and I head to the counter to order, at which point my grin is wiped clean off my face by the news they no longer serve Bloody Mary. I reel from the counter… “Huh… why not?” I’m told there isn’t enough call for it; they used to make up their spiced tomato mix fresh in the morning but all too often it ended up being untouched. “That’s ridiculous,” I suggest and the barrista confirms his complete agreement, along with an apologetic shrug. I order a flat white and an apple juice and return disconsolately to my seat.
It’s an uncomplicated but elegant room, well-lit, white walls, bare wood floor and an abundance of colour provided by shelves of plants, interspersed with gourds. There’s a large table in the window that’s often utilised for communal eating, three counter seats and the rest of the room is made up of tables of two that are set up to be joined as fours, as required. It’s one of those places that wouldn’t work for anyone seeking personal space, but it provides a warm, convivial atmosphere.
It’s not a place to come if you are in any kind of rush and experience has taught me not to arrive here too hungry; besides I’m more concerned when food comes out the kitchen too quickly. But my coffee has long gone, so I order a small glass of Les Galets Rouge, Côtes du Rhône. It’s easy drinking and likely to be a perfect match for my duck with a hint of liquorice and spice amongst dark berry fruits.
My dish eventually arrives as a towered stack, topped with lightly golden-crisp onion rings, under which sits a perfectly fried duck egg. The first task before tucking in is to knock off the onion rings and release the yolk, letting it run into the subtly winter-spiced red cabbage and hash; a crushed potato cake, and succulent confit-style, shredded duck. This all sits in a pool of jus-gravy that has more than enough swagger to hold its own, in what is a very considered dish. Oh, I get it now.
Duck hash & veggie breakfast
I’ve just one slight quibble; the battered onion rings didn’t stay crisp for long, having soaked up the stock. The last time I had this, the onions were crispy fried without batter and worked better for that; the hash was also a combination of smoked duck and sweet potato, although on that front today’s version didn’t detract much at all from that particular pleasure. I guess that’s where seasonality and availability come into play.
Across the table, Georgie’s plate is brimming with grilled halloumi, sweetcorn fritter, Boston beans, potato cake, malted toast, a poached egg and topped with grilled tomato and mushroom. I get a thumbs up and an approving nod, but she comes here with her friends too, so knows what to expect.
It all comes in at £31.70 and as brunches go, it’s just a Bloody Mary short of fabulous.
Guy Beringer, I salute you. The King Cole Bar, I salute you. People of Kings Heath, you need to have a word with yourselves.
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