Indian Cafe Racer
DIAMOND LIFE
Having received not one, but three recent recommendations about this ‘hidden gem’—and two from ‘foodies’ I hold in high esteem—I’ve succumbed to the noise that’s been uniformly effusive and gushing. Besides, we’re pre-theatre dining ahead of a visit to the Hippodrome, so we couldn’t be much better located to seize the opportunity.
Despite being aware it’s located in the Duke of Wellington pub/hotel, it’s still an inauspicious start as we head through the sparsely populated bar with multiple TV screens showing a mix of Aussie Rules Football, The Premier League and snooker. And although we head just twenty metres away on the other side of the bar it feels like a through the wardrobe Narnia-esque transformation. This includes a greeting so warm and heartfelt it’s like a hug that dissolves away all the troubles of the world. Even at 5.45 the room is already half full and the air is full of ambrosial aromas that crank my appetite up to drooling point.
Indian Cafe Race dining room
When handing over the menus it’s explained that whilst they look after the kitchen, they hold no sway at all over the bar, “so cocktails are best avoided”, which is just about the best ice breaker ever. We’re happy with beers and the only decision is whether to go down the starter and main route or the sharing option, but it’s the sort of menu that has me wanting to try as many dishes as possible so it‘s the latter that wins out.
Gol Gappa
First up is gol gappa; crispy shells filled with chick peas, potato and vermicelli, accompanied by a sweet, tamarind and mint-loaded pouring sauce with a spicy kick. We clash knuckles going for the final shell, but I’m there first and they’re far too addictive for me to even remotely consider any act of chivalry.
Lemon crab cakes
Unfortunately, that does mean I feel I should offer to step aside on the last of three lemony-Thai style crab cakes that seem as light as they are dense and full of flavours that entice every last taste bud into action. I watch mournfully as it disappears without even an offer of a small bite, despite my pleading eyes.
Spiced lamb chops
Thankfully, there’s an even number of ‘spiced lamb chops’, even though that’s just one each. They’re a generous size with tenderness and flavour in abundance from being marinated overnight, then finished in the tandoor, complete with requisite crunchy burnt bits.
Gobi Manchurian
Providing the wetness is easily the best gobi manchurian I’ve ever experienced; its sweet and sour sauce is pitch perfect but even more magical are cauliflower florets perfect on the bite and coated in a batter that remains crispy. And just when you think this dish couldn’t be made any better there are wonderful mini nuggets of crunchy batter in the sauce.
Dining room (by 6.30)
After that wave of small plates there’s a small break in proceedings which brings time to order another pint and take in the surroundings. The pub is Grade II listed, so it has good bones and looks like it’s been recently refurbished, but the dining room has very much its own Indian Cafe Racer personality… not least the Royal Enfield motorbike that’s very much the focal point and a late sixties jazzy, psychedelic, Indian fusion soundtrack that oozes far more cool than my attempt to pin it down.
Rajastani Lamb
Off the mains we’re sharing a slow cooked, meat loaded, succulent Rajastani lamb that’s nothing short of layers of curry perfection, complete with a faint hint of smokiness. We’ve paired it with a light, billowing and garlic loaded nan and whilst scraping up the last of the sauce I feel a surge of triumph for no reason other than having finished off five dishes of food of sublime quality and they’ve all been beautifully presented too.
Garlic nan
Our total bill is a frankly fabulous £69.20 (£54.20 Food / £15 Drinks) plus a well deserved tip; service is genuinely first class, like old school first class… not just efficient but full of charm too.
So, here I am being effusive and gushing, adding to the positive noise about this wonderful place that surely won’t stay a ‘hidden gem’ for very much longer, if indeed it still is. My advice is to get in whilst you can!
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 9/10
Duke of Wellington, 72 Bristol Street, Birmingham B5 7AH
