Peacer
PIZZA… NOT WHOLE BUT IN PEACE
Despite being awash with fine dining possibilities, Birmingham has long been a desert when it comes to pizza. So much so, for probably a quarter of a century I’ve happily remained loyal to Pizza Express. And whilst I pretty much only ever order two pizzas off their menu - the Fiorentina and the Calabrese – across what must be 100+ visits and multiple branches, the consistency has been generally hard to fault. It also served us well with our young daughter in tow, initially through the Piccolo menu and activity pack and then as an easy dining out option when vegetarianism began to take hold of her.
In truth, its days have been numbered ever since Otto started demonstrating the exquisite gastronomic possibilities of this humblest of foods (not to mention their Tiramisù). It’s been well worth the trek to the Jewellery Quarter to sample its delights. And now, suddenly, we’re spoilt for choice... with Rudy’s and Franco Manca both recently opening on Bennett’s Hill, pizza is now spreading like wildfire out of the city centre.
Within the same flare of a match that saw Poli open in Kings Heath, but with much less fanfare, Peacer opened in Moseley. So much so, that whilst I’d heard all about their next door neighbour Katsu Kitchen many weeks ago, it took a detour to the Patrick Kavanagh during Mostly Jazz for me to even know it was there. Although noticing it was ‘pizza by the slice’ I didn’t pay it much attention.
But fast-forward a week and my now not so young and fully confirmed vegetarian daughter needs feeding, as does my hangover. I suggest we head into Moseley with a plan to weave in a pint until I remember there’s not a pub in the village I’d happily eat at (again). And then it came to me … like a giant knight in shimmering, shining armour astride the number 50 bus …Peacer!
Let’s get this out the way, what Peacer don’t do is wood fired pizza with big puffy crusts. It’s pizza by the slice… all pre-cooked and requiring a quick blast in the ovens. It has the charm of a neighbourhood boutique restaurant. Dark green walls, an adequate sound system playing the right side of cool Indie, comfortable seating, Keith Haring prints on the wall, Pip’s Hot Sauce on the tables and friendly staff.
There are six pizzas on sale (all £3.50) … sitting somewhere between the Spice Girls and the Seven Dwarfs, there’s Cheesy, Spicy, Vegan, Garlicky, Smokey and Tangy and they’re all vegetarian. We opt for three between us – which is more than adequate for lunch. I’d happily have anyone of them again and already looking forward to whenever that is.
First was the Garlicky one (White garlic sauce, mozzarella, mushroom, rocket and Italian hard cheese) that came with a pile of fresh rocket on top. Personally I’d have expected more garlic but that didn’t detract from the pleasure.
The Spicy had spade fulls of sensual sweet and hot pleasure for the tastebuds. Sweet in a way that only honey can provide and hot in a way that only fresh chillies can deliver and rest assured there is plenty of fresh chilli.
But the winner, voted by both of us, was Smokey (Homemade BBQ sauce, mozzarella, smoked cheddar, southern spiced halloumi and charred onion) which I’d have happily wagered was a meat feast. Although in truth the ultimate winner for me was the very delicious pint of Tiny Rebel lager, which was undoubtedly the best Hair of the Dog ever… until the next one.
Throw in a sparkling water and I’ve got a bill of £16.50, which I gleefully pay. Peacer is more café than restaurant, but we wander out of there with an air that’s almost self-congratulatory; we have discovered our family’s holy grail of good local pizza. And then, as we turn onto the High Street, walking past Pizza Express I realise that whilst it’s still my favourite national chain restaurant, I’ll probably never need to go again.
WORTH A TRY