Westerns Laundry
A LIGHT SHOWER IN DRY JANUARY
We’re meeting our daughter for lunch, having been to a friend’s 50th birthday party last night. Whilst I’m rather buoyed to have lasted the night without booze, I just can’t imagine a meal out without wine. It’s why I usually stay in for the whole of January.
But the decision to drink this lunchtime has already been made, as has my daughter’s decision to put Veganuary on hold, with us agreeing a three hour ‘ceasefire’ from our abstinences.
We decide on here, as there’s a heavy lean towards seafood and ‘pescatarian’ is her opt out position. For me, they specialise in natural wines—mostly low intervention or biodynamic—and mostly on the pricey side… whatever. And ever the opportunist, I suggest we start with aperitivos and it’s passed unanimously.
Westerns laundry - on arrival
Armed with a vermouth spritz, I’m handed responsibility to order for everyone and whilst the advice of six dishes between us sounds great, we’re leaving well over half the menu untouched. But, any ‘disappointment’ gets lost in the large, open plan dining room and kitchen, bathed in light from floor to ceiling crittall windows. It’s industrial workshop airy, yet cosy and homely at the same time, with plush, mustard gold velvet furnishings and fresh amaryllis and mimosa to complete the look.
JZ Velue Grüner Veltliner
Having finally worked out a route through the menu, I order a bottle of Grüner Veltliner, that’s citrussy with plenty of orchard fruit and great minerality. This is easily the happiest I’ve been so far this month.
I’ve ordered two of the raw black bream because I just know one won’t be enough. It delivers on its promise with melt-in the mouth freshness heightened by hints of orange in EVO oil and unexpectantly sweet and tart rhubarb and perky piquancy from green peppercorns. I nearly order a third.
Raw black bream, rhubarb, green peppercorns
The next dish is a riot of red, pinks and creams, with various incarnations of radicchio topped by trimmed slices of blood orange with plenty of crunchy fennel throwing aniseed in the mix. The bitterness of the leaves is countered by an off-sweet orange dressing with earthy, minty thyme. My only beef is that are just three thin slices of blood orange—despite its star billing—but at least we get one each.
Cod’s roe, toast & pickled guindillas
On putting the next dish down, our waiter asks if we’d like more bread before I even register the single slice of sourdough toast. It’s been that kind of service… laid back, but intuitive and efficient. It’s definitely a more bread kind of dish, with a generous pile of subtly fishy, airy whipped cod’s roe and restrained heat from pickled guindillas.
Hake, anchovy & watercress sauce
By the fifth dish it’s evident it’s coming out one item at a time and it’s all timed to perfection. I’m totally up for having time to savour each plate and avoids having to find room on the table for waves of food landing at the kitchen’s whim. As it happens it’s the most visually arresting; a firm, meaty hake fillet with croutons, sitting in a watercress soupy-sauce as gutsy as its dark green tones suggest. It also means we order more bread for mopping duties.
Baked cuttlefish, fideo, aioli
I’ve probably overloaded on bread by the time the final dish arrives, but I’m fully prepared to dig in. It’s cuttlefish ink-black baked fideo (thin Mexican noodles)—crispy on the surface and creamy soft below—topped with tender pieces of cuttlefish and a big dollop of aioli.
Western Laundry - interior (getting busy)
An hour and a half have passed in a flash and whereas our conversation was initially buoyed by a funk-driven soundtrack, music is now barely audible above the bustle of a roomful of contented diners, encompassing couples, two groups of 30-something friends and a couple of young families. I want to stay here for as long as possible and despite not feeling hungry, I suggest we share a dessert... and then to seal the deal, point out there are dessert wines too.
Rum baba
Eventually by a 2-1 decision we opt for the rum baba and it’s a syrupy booze-soaked beauty, served with just about enough Chantilly cream and a scattering of rum plumped raisins. And then I remember my glass of passito… providing a sun soaked Moscato end to a fabulous meal, that’s been well worthy of the ceasefire that’s nothing more significant than a light shower in an otherwise dry month.
I settle the bill of £221.62 (Drinks £106.50 / Food £90.50 / Service £24.62) and we amble to Highbury & Islington before going our separate ways and returning to our January abstinences.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 9/10
34 Drayton Park, Highbury East, London N5 1PB
