Tropea
FARESAVER
A more recent review from October 2022 is available here
It’s been a tough week at work after an Italian holiday that’s now exaggerating a chill in the air announcing summer has gone. It’s brought on gloomy thoughts of dark days and nights and the central heating has gone on, with two fingers to the hike in gas prices. I’m already on the edge and there’s not much that has the power to depress me as a menu can.
The two main offenders are ‘gastro pubs’ with identikit menus and, more commonly, Italian restaurants offering nothing more than typical tourist fare. I’ve pretty much given up hope of ever eating proper Italian food in this city and always head to London to tick that box, but a friend has suggested—no, make that urged me—to give this place a try.
I can’t say I’m hopeful, but the warmth of our welcome immediately lifts me, as does the energy in the room, fuelled by the fusing of music and conversation. It’s only 7 o’clock and we’re shown to the only remaining table.
Whilst our waitress heads off to bring our drinks, I take a deep breath before engaging with the menu. I can barely make sense of it from a quick skim and my eyes are up and down it another three times before I dare to believe what I’m reading. There’s not one dish I’d have predicted, it’s seasonal and dependent on the availability of ingredients—exactly as any self-respecting Italian restaurant should be.
We’re told dishes are recommended to be shared and to order five to seven between us, depending on how hungry we are. With my serotonin levels already boosted and a house negroni in hand, I’m now giddy with excitement.
Pumpkin and taleggio arancino with pumpkin puree (from @TuttoAposto)
First on the table with some sun dried tomato focaccia, is an arancino looking like the goose’s golden egg on a velvet cushion. It’s got perfect crunch on the outside, but its pumpkin and taleggio core needs more punch, although it’s rescued by the sweet, autumnal comfort of pumpkin puree.
Pappardelle, 12 hour beef shin ragu, 24 month parmesan
The next course fires up positive thoughts of autumn with thick ribbons of perfectly al dente ‘home made’ pappardelle, with the intensified meaty hit of 12 hour braised beef shin ragù and a dusting of 24 month Parmesan. Mopping up the remains of ragù brings more pleasure by accentuating the sweetness of sun-dried tomatoes and the oily crunch of the focaccia.
Aubergine parmigiana
The breadcrumb-crisp topped aubergine parmigiana is textbook, managing to be fresh and vibrant as well as deep and complex, not to mention stodgy and bold all at the same time. It’d make an Italian grandmother proud.
Ox cheek, crispy polenta, shallot, pickled walnut, red wine
It’s the ideal partner for the ox cheek braised in red wine and veal stock until it collapses on the fork and practically dissolves in the mouth. Crispy polenta is the perfect foil for its deeply mined flavours, spot lit by sweet and sour from shallot and pickled walnut.
By now I’m fully happy to embrace the turn to autumn and our conversation turns to windy coastal walks to pubs with log fires. And then our final two dishes offer the promise of an Indian summer.
Wild shell-on red prawns, garlic and chilli oil
First is a bowl of three well-hung, wild red prawns in garlic and chilli oil infused cooking juices. I’d happily order it again, with or without the prawns, and it rightly comes with more of the excellent focaccia for the plentiful mopping duties.
Octopus, fried potatoes, black olives, saffron aioli
The octopus is the first thing I saw on the menu I wanted to order, but at £15 it’s more about what it isn’t, than what it is. It’s OK, but lacks the smoky crispiness of a flame-finished crust, whilst the fried potato offers little and it all leaves too much work to do for the saffron aioli.
Never mind, I’m full of Valpolicella and for the most part the meal has delivered on all the hope the menu promised and the pacing of the courses has been spot on too. I don’t want this evening to end.
Katrina decides against more food, opting instead for an espresso martini but I’ve already spotted dessert wine and tiramisù enticing me with a dual pleasure I’ve always struggled to resist.
The only dessert wine available by the glass is Donnafugata ‘Ben Rye’ Passito di Pantelleria at £13.80. Given the price, I’m intrigued why there isn’t an alternative, so co-owner Ben is sent over and the upshot is as far as he’s concerned there is no better dessert wine and wants to extend that experience to his customers. That’s enough for me to fully commit. Besides, it’s the beginning of autumn and there’s much to celebrate.
Tiramisù (from @TuttoAposto)
It is a fabulous decision with layers that unfold orange blossom, raisins, peach, hints of spice, smokiness and even minerality amongst the sweetness. I imagine this is how liquefied love must taste. But the tiramisù, whilst perfectly formed, is too child-friendly for me, lacking both coffee and booze. Never mind, it’s nothing a grappa and an espresso can’t sort out.
With the bill we’re brought a couple of glasses of Frangelico ‘on the house’—a hazelnut liqueur—into which Ben advises a squeeze of lime. And that will have us googling Frangelico stockists when we get home.
The bill comes in at £169.70 plus tip. It’s marginally on the expensive side although Tropea will save me plenty of money on train fares to London to get my Italian fix. It’s just what this city needs.
RECOMMENDED
27 Lordswood Road, Harborne, Birmingham B17 9RP
