All tagged mediterranean

Brawn

The BBQ’d squid could only be better if I could hear waves breaking on a beach; it’s easy on the bite, with delicate slices of full flavoured tomatoes, but it’s fruity Taggiasche olives and a citrussy salsa verde that take full charge of the palate… READ MORE

Vagabond

The seared and sliced hanger steak is perfectly medium rare and very easy on the jaw, although it’s totally let down by the accompanying herb-lite and vinegar heavy ‘chimichurri’ featuring what seem to be coriander seeds providing a hugely unwelcome grittiness to proceedings… READ MORE

Ducksoup

The lamb neck fillet has been flash grilled, so it’s gorgeously pink and tender, with its juices running into the bed of creamy lentils with perfect bite. With delicately sweet and grassy, early season asparagus and salinity from olives pushes itself forward as dish of the day… READ MORE

Tropea

By sight alone I know it’ll delight and it does exactly that; with perfect on the bite, caramelised grilled octopus, crispy potatoes, and a decent dollop of ‘nduja aioli providing a light kick of heat, and with sweetness coming from roasted Calabrian peppers and Sicilian datterini tomatoes… READ MORE

Upstairs at Grace + James

A supermodel-gorgeous, rotund slab of porchetta with golden crunchy crackling around fatty, succulent belly and lean loin in equal measure, stuffed, rolled and slow roasted. It’s sweet and savoury flavours amplified by the fresh zing of gremolata loaded with peppery parsley, garlic, lemon and grassy olive oil… READ MORE

Tropea

Thick ribbons of perfectly al dente ‘home made’ pappardelle with the intensified meaty hit of 12 hour braised beef shin ragù and a heavy dusting of 24 month Parmesan. Mopping up brings even more pleasure by accentuating the sweetness of sun-dried tomatoes and oily crunch of the focaccia… READ MORE