Harborne Kitchen
ABSOLUTELY TRAD
Our daughter’s home for a few days and we have a nascent tradition of a pre-Christmas dressy up kind of meal out. We’re not after a fine dining thing; it’s not a £500 meal occasion, just something we can get a bit excited about. But given we’re so close to Christmas, even midweek, the main contenders are all fully booked.
One place I’ve kept looking at over the years, and yet never made it to, is Harborne Kitchen. And whilst it’s fully fine dining, they’ve a five course ‘midweek treat’ at £55 per head, so that’s that then.
Harborne Kitchen dining room
We’re shown into a smart room that offers little in the way of personality, despite a view of the open plan kitchen, although service is brisk and friendly. We ease ourselves in with port and tonic, which makes a strong case to become the drink of the festive season. And given it’s the season to be jolly I propose we go with the ‘classic wine’ pairing at £30 a head and that kicks off with a glass of Nyetimber.
Aged Cheddar & Walnut
First up on the food side of things is two bites of a savoury-sharp, liquefied aged Cheddar-pumped profiterole, topped with a shaving of walnut. It’s very much an amuse bouche rather than a true first course but ‘best in breed’ sourdough bread and whipped butter takes up the slack for our fully primed appetites.
Sourdough & whipped butter
Jamie’s Chicken & White Chocolate
The first course proper is announced as Jamie’s Chicken & White Chocolate. Under a heavy red dusting and crunch from sourdough crumb, sits a wonderfully airy and light chicken liver parfait with indulgent creaminess from white chocolate, although any richness is brought into line by the tangy citrus zing of kumquat puree.
Hen of the Woods, egg yolk, black garlic
The ‘pescatarian’ option across the table is Hen of the Woods AKA maitake mushrooms on top of a sourdough crumpet with egg yolk and black garlic puree that gets a thumbs up.
Malloreddus, Ox, Madeira
There’s another menu split with the third course, although they both feature malloreddus, like a smaller version of gnocchi made with semolina flour and water. They’re initially marshmallow soft although perfectly al dente, playing the role of dumplings in a rich ox and Madeira gravy, with a few shreds of tender meat.
Malloreddus, crispy sage
Looking over at the ‘pescatarian’ option, I can’t help but feel my daughter’s been cheated, with the malloreddus in a bath of butter with crispy sage, under a light dusting of Parmesan and it’s reported as unremarkable.
Fillet of Cod, salt baked celeriac, salsify
Course number four is a super-succulent fillet of cod, with celeriac two ways; salt baked and pureed, with crispy, robust cavolo nero and crunch from linseed wafers, although the subtle flavours offered by salsify are lost in a bath of rich, yeasty gravy that dominates the whole dish. It just about wins me over, but I can’t help thinking you could quite easily swap out the cod for lamb… oh hang on, now there’s an idea.
Pearl barley ‘risotto’
I’m not overly enamoured by this dish, although that’s only half the story as it comes with a bowl of ‘pearl barley risotto’ that’s appears to be simply there to ensure we don’t go home hungry. It’s so lacking in anything but chewiness that I doubt even Oliver would ask for more. A pointless anecdote would be more satisfying and all three bowls are more or less untouched.
Harborne Honey, lavender, crème fraiche
The last course—Harborne honey, lavender, crème fraiche—is the one I’ve already written off in my head as not my kind of thing. It sounds far too much like a herbal sleep remedy than any grand dessert finale should. Although it takes just one tentative, half forkful to start drawing me in. And wow, it completely is as any grand dessert finale should be, with sweetness from a meringue type dusting and there’s surprising substance given its lightness and with flavours held back it allows the textures to shine. Although, the other two are nowhere near so enamoured and one is barely touched.
Following on from the Nyetimber, the wine pairings have been first class including a berry fruit forward, silky yet complex Susumaniello from Puglia with the pasta, an aromatic South African Semillon with the cod and an Australian cane cut Marsanne to finish. Sparkling water has been free and plentiful throughout and it’s set up nicely for a round of Frangelicos with a squeeze of lime, along with the bill, which arrives with petit fours.
I like where the five course ‘midweek treat’ has fallen in terms of my appetite, although it’s the perfectly pitched wine pairings that have been the stand out, sometimes making up where the food didn’t quite deliver. It means our bill of £310 (£165 food / £116 booze / £29 tip) feels a little excessive, although it has delivered on what we set out for the occasion to achieve. This time next year we’ll have a fully fledged tradition to maintain.
WORTH A TRY 6/10
175 High Street, Harborne, Birmingham, B17 9QE
