The Red Lion
PERSISTENCE REWARDED
Awash with feelings of déjà vu, I’ve been decorating all day and I’m craving a roast. It’s fast approaching six o’clock, but I’m determined to make good on last Sunday’s failed attempt to get to the Red Lion in the Jewellery Quarter. Heading past the cricket ground, we’re so hungry we start debating nearer alternatives. I suggest The Physician… and we’re still laughing by the time we come around the corner past Simpsons and see it shamelessly resplendent, ahead of us.
Although it’s painted entirely fashionably grey on the outside, The Red Lion is very much a Victorian pub including many original features such as the large, triple arched front window, Minton tiled corridors as well as its bars and fittings. The two downstairs rooms are perfectly formed cosinesss – with smart banquette seating, padded bar stools, copper topped tables, chandeliers and enough authentic Brit Street Art prints to qualify as a gallery. And TVs for sport, should you be that way inclined.
Unfortunately, it’s a bit on the full side in both rooms. Stood in the back room, I suggest we ask to squeeze in as there’s a slither of space in the corner, but the family have already turned to head upstairs to the ‘dining room’. Following them up, there’s a classic burgundy pub banquette along the long windowed side, but the chairs are plusher and the tables squarer with covers for about 40 people at a squeeze, but it has the air of a function room with its small hatch bar. There’s a bare brick wall with TV on one side and three large prints on the wall opposite. But, the most striking thing is the carpet, that Georgie suggests looks like an off cut from a ten-pin bowling alley.
The room is just over half full, although it seems most diners have finished eating and entering the food coma stage. I try once more to persuade an attempt to wedge in downstairs but they’re already moving towards an empty table. Perhaps a tad sulkily, I insist on sitting on the banquette facing the room, but I think I contain my disappointment well enough.
A very smiley waitress with cloth in hand apprehends us, explaining it’s been very busy as she wipes down our table. A stack of empty plates and glasses on the small bar is testament to that. She returns with menus, along with the heartbreaking news that there is no more cauliflower cheese. I take that further disappointment square on the chin, as it’s the price to pay for arriving so late, when they’ve been knocking out roasts since midday.
There’s little point me looking at the menu, other than check the price of the Roast Beef, which is £12.95. With a place in the CAMRA Good Pub Guide, the emphasis is on the beers, so there are just 5 whites and 5 reds on offer. I go for the Sangiovese Terre Forti, which is simply described as ‘Light & Easy Drinking.’ At £16.95 it’s a decent enough red to slurp with the roast and manages to feel a bit weightier than its 12% suggests it should. Katrina goes for the Braised Shoulder of Lamb and Georgie goes for the Vegetarian Sausage Roast.
The drinks arrive and the conversation ebbs and flows along with the Motown greatest hits soundtrack. Ball of Confusion by The Temptations tips Katrina into a bout of reminiscing about her youth. Next thing I know Georgie is chastising me for watching the football, even accusing me of demanding my seat just so I could get the best view of the TV. I’m quick to point out to her I have no interest whatsoever in Scotland versus San Marino at 6-0 up (even if John McGinn has scored a hat-trick). I think I got away with it.
When the food arrives, it comes with a heartfelt apology that they have run out of Yorkshire puddings. But before I can even get my wind back from such a low blow, not only do I spot a fine looking Yorkshire pudding on my plate, the waiter also offers us a free dessert to make up for it.
Whilst that sounds perfectly fine and fair to me, the girls are not entirely won over as they’re the ones without the Yorkshire puds. Besides, there are three deep plates of food in front of us that are demanding our attention.
The first thing I spot is that there are three generous slices of perfectly medium rare beef sitting on a hillock of vegetables. Before the waiter has properly turned on his heels, I realise I’ll need more gravy for the Herculean task to get this plate clean. I’m told it’s an extra £1.50… whatever… and it’s swiftly brought along with the individual serving pots of mint sauce and horseradish.
With everything in place, I set about my task. I’ve been eating for what seems like at least fifteen minutes before discovering everything on my plate. There’s mash, roast potatoes, crushed swede, carrots, peas, kale and red cabbage that has a lovely tangy crunch to it and none of the usual mulled spices that tend to overpower it.
That said, the peas are hard as pellets, the carrots a touch overdone and the potatoes lack any gnarly roasted crunch. However, I’m willing to cut them some slack given the time of day, as this is an otherwise decent Sunday roast. In fact, my only real criticism is that I didn’t get a medal to reward my efforts in actually clearing the plate, leaving just the gun shot peas behind.
When it’s time for the free dessert, I gallantly leave the girls to choose between them. Three spoons arrive with the Sticky Toffee Pudding, served with a small dollop of vanilla ice cream, drizzle of toffee sauce and squidge of cream. This was more than enough given the food we’d already eaten.
The total bill is £59.35 and at that price, if The Red Lion was walkable, I’d go out for a Sunday roast quite a bit more than I currently do. But I’d absolutely insist we ate in the bar… either room would work, but if available I’d choose the back bar.
At least my craving for a Sunday roast is over, for now.
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