All in Jewellery Quarter

Trentina

The orecchiette sits in a puddle of oil that would have Doctor Foster worried, with strands of leafy, mustardy friarielli sauteed in garlic and chilli and this looks the part, but it’s way over salted. But that’s insignificant compared to the pasta that I refuse to believe has been made fresh in the kitchen or even by hand… READ MORE

1000 Trades

My roasted saddle of Gower salt marsh lamb is a wonderfully tender, thick slice of delicately sweet-grassy and samphire-salty, rolled loin cooked perfectly pink. There’s nothing on the plate that’s not contributing to a full massage of the palate both in terms of flavour or texture… READ MORE

Folium

With expectations for the rest of the meal already cranked up to maximum, Wye Valley Asparagus with Cornish caviar then pushes a turbo button. A verdant sauce manages to smell even greener than it looks, but delivers pure umami to amplify the otherwise subtle flavours on the plate… READ MORE

1000 Trades

The oxtail pepper pot comes with mac and cheese. It sounds so wrong and it is actually so far wrong it emerges through the other side as something quite fabulous; melt in the mouth oxtail falling off the bone in a rich, fragrant, spicy gravy with the comfort of a creamy and perfectly sleazy mac & cheese… READ MORE

The Red Lion

I’ve been eating for what seems like fifteen minutes before discovering everything on my plate. There’s mash, roast potatoes, crushed swede, carrots, peas, kale and red cabbage that has a lovely tangy crunch to it and none of the usual mulled spices that tend to overpower it… READ MORE