The Bun and Barrel
THE APPLIANCE OF SCIENCE
THE BUN AND BARREL IS NOW CLOSED
A brief history of burgers in Birmingham starts with Wimpy, then McDonalds, then Handmade Burger Co. before Digbeth Dining Club introduced us to the independents… Patty Freaks, Meat Meets Bun, Flying Cows etc. and, of course, the hipster burger legends and purveyors of filth, Original Patty Men, who opened their own place in Digbeth in 2015. These days, most high streets are home to some kind of independent burger joint, so whilst the gourmetfication of the humble burger is long established, surroundings haven’t done their bit to match… until now.
It’s been five weeks since The Bun and Barrel opened and if reports are correct, it’s Brum’s first burger restaurant that could work as a ‘dinner date’ option. What’s been holding me back is the ten mile round trip and it being walk ins only, which could mean a queue outside? I’ve been fishing for clues about wait times and protocols but there’s nothing on the website and a message via social media only offers ‘it’s tricky to give an average time as it fluctuates. We do have two areas people can drink - by our pool table or in the bar area.’
And so it is, we take our chance on a Friday evening at 6.30 and first signs are positive with no one waiting outside, in the queue friendly, covered alley way entrance. Unfortunately, our joy is short lived as the greeter announces it’s about a 45 minute to an hour wait, as everybody in the bar area is waiting. It’s a welcoming space but there are no seats, by all accounts the pool area is busy too and if we leave, we’ll lose our place in the queue.
Pool area
I can only imagine I’ve not completely suppressed my inner pain and disappointment, as we’re immediately offered a narrow bar height table with stools and we’re sitting down faster than you can a flip a patty.
Just five minutes after arriving, we’re feeling rather smug with a large glass of chilled Primitivo that will force me to reappraise the future temperature of that particular Puglian classic and a large Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire that’s doing a decent impression of a Sancerre. No surprise all the wines (a fizz, a white, a rosé and a red served by the glass or carafe) are this good and all natural, as they’re from Wine Freedom. Draught beers are from Attic Brewery.
Main room
We’re down by the pool room, which adds quiet energy to an already buoyant atmosphere, fuelled by a room full of contented diners coaxed along by an indie rock soundtrack at the optimum volume, just below the requirement for shouty conversations. The room’s bare brick and steel is eased by a distressed paint effect on the walls and then softened by a plush, padded banquette and elegant light fittings. I don’t know if it’s intentional or not but I feel like we’re in a mid-80s American movie.
Their house burger at £9 is made from Himalayan salt aged beef, infused with bone marrow as two 3oz patties, smashed thin to maximise the Maillard reaction between amino acids and reducing sugars that intensify the distinctive flavour of grilled meat. The appliance of that kind of cooking science is hardly surprising given one of the co-owners is Jamie Desogus—chef/owner of Harborne Kitchen—and that also means demi-brioche buns are made fresh from scratch, in house, every day.
King of the menu is The Rossini, wearing its fine dining aspirations on its sleeve; featuring two patties, cured bacon, seared duck liver, miso onion and sherry vinegar gastrique that all adds to its £22.50 price tag. But, after all that tantalising meat tease, I go fully off piste with the soft shell crab, although only after negotiating a ¼ swap with the house burger and a portion of The Don’s fries to share.
The B & B Burger
The ‘basic’ B&B burger has pickled cabbage, jalapeño, matchstick potato, baby gem and American mustard along with the two patties and we’ve added just a slice of cheese, despite my pleading for the further addition of a full streaky and back rasher of cured bacon. It sends flavours across the palate like a meteor lighting up the sky, but the real surprise is the mix of textures with the crunch of the matchstick potato bringing a big purr of satisfaction.
Soft shell crab (topless)
Fortunately, my tempura battered soft shell crab brings the same crunchy joy from the matchstick potato and the buttery sweetness of the demi-brioche bun. The subtle flavour of the crab is bolstered by mango and chilli salsa, shellfish mayo, pickled cabbage, picked white crab meat and lemon, meaning every mouthful is cherished.
The Don’s fries
The Don's fries come topped with ‘Nonna’s ragù’ boasting slow cooked nuggets of meat that would put many of the city’s Italian restaurants’ Bolognese to shame. That it’s topped with a heavy dusting of 24 month Parmesan merely seals the deal.
An extra glass of Primitivo nudges the bill up to a very respectable £54.50 (£24.50 Booze / £30 Food) plus tip. We’re in and out in less than hour, so it’s very much fast food, even at the gourmet end, but it’s more than just the food that elevates the whole experience; the quality of glasses and cutlery, as well as the service, are all very much fine dining standard.
This really is the new benchmark for Brum burger joints.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Since this review was published The Bun and Barrel is now available to book
152A High Street, Harborne, Birmingham B17 9PN
