All tagged small plates

Indian Cafe Racer

First up is gol gappa; crispy shells filled with chick peas, potato and vermicelli, accompanied with a sweet pouring sauce with a spicy kick, loaded with tamarind and mint. We clash knuckles going for the final shell, but I’m there first and they’re far too addictive for me to even consider any act of chivalry… READ MORE

Westerns Laundry

I’ve ordered two of the raw black bream because I just know one won’t be enough. It delivers on its promise with melt-in the mouth freshness heightened by hints of orange in EVO oil and unexpectantly sweet and tart rhubarb and perky piquancy from green peppercorns. I nearly order a third… READ MORE

Upstairs at Grace + James

A supermodel-gorgeous, rotund slab of porchetta with golden crunchy crackling around fatty, succulent belly and lean loin in equal measure, stuffed, rolled and slow roasted. It’s sweet and savoury flavours amplified by the fresh zing of gremolata loaded with peppery parsley, garlic, lemon and grassy olive oil… READ MORE

Cork and Cage

The hot, meaty spread of ‘nduja on ‘grilled bread’, more like crunchy, oil soaked, fried stale bread is throwing new light on the tomato and mild cheese combo. It’s the dream stage for creamy slabs of mozzarella and allows fresh, sweet datterini tomatoes and pickled chillies to combine for tongue tingling pleasure... READ MORE

Bright

A plate of thin slices of raw grey mullet, covered in a briny seaweed laden oil, tempered by lemon zest provides a boost to the fresh delicacy of fish. It’s gone quicker than a tray of free Jägerbombs in Fresher’s week, but I refuse to entertain even a glimmer of disappointment and order another straight away.… READ MORE

Vinoteca

As for the beef carpaccio, rocket and Parmesan, off the lunch menu—so let’s not forget it’s made from “carefully sourced ingredients, created by each site’s own head chef”—it is nothing short of abysmal. Thin sliced, ‘roast beef’—the sort you get out a packet at the supermarket—with eight rocket leaves and a sneeze of cheese… READ MORE

Trentina

The orecchiette sits in a puddle of oil that would have Doctor Foster worried, with strands of leafy, mustardy friarielli sauteed in garlic and chilli and this looks the part, but it’s way over salted. But that’s insignificant compared to the pasta that I refuse to believe has been made fresh in the kitchen or even by hand… READ MORE

Poli

My lasagne calzone, looking like a recently erupted volcano is so pornographic it should come with a XXX rating. It’s also full of red hot delight—striansese tomatoes, béchamel, ox cheek ragu, fior di latte mozzarella, basil and topped with parmesan… READ MORE