All tagged East London

Brawn

The BBQ’d squid could only be better if I could hear waves breaking on a beach; it’s easy on the bite, with delicate slices of full flavoured tomatoes, but it’s fruity Taggiasche olives and a citrussy salsa verde that take full charge of the palate… READ MORE

Brat

John Dory cooked over fire fails to give it any kind of visual makeover, but cooked initially over hot coals before being finished over gentler heat, its pleasures are intensified across flavour and texture, especially for lovers of crunchy skin… READ MORE

Little Duck The Picklery

I’m not nearly so honourable when it comes to the next plate that offers up a fresh take on mozzarella, with stewed flat piattone beans and sweet datterini tomatoes, fresh mint and topped with the crunch of fried breadcrumbs. It’s a dish that offers a titanic blow for blow battle of textures and flavours… READ MORE

Brat x Climpson's Arch

The hake collar is the meaty, fatty bit of a fish at the pectoral fins, behind the gills and when grilled over hot charcoal, the skin gets all crispy. With no hidden little bones, they’re perfect for dipping in the dreamy accompanying custard-like aioli, topped with burnt onion dust and chives… READ MORE

Campania and Jones

Across the table we’re split 3:3 with a large single raviolo filled with squash puree, featuring a slab of roasted squash, an appropriate puddle of butter and a decent layer of Parmesan. My three plump balls of pillowy, sweet ricotta have a heavy spike of nutmeg but not quite enough sage butter… READ MORE

Manteca

And then those two ordinarily scene stealing plates of pasta find themselves outshone by tonnarelli, brown crab, cacio e pepe with the rich, sweetness of brown crab proving to be the dream date for the creamy, salty and peppery spiciness of cacio e pepe… READ MORE